Black Hair Care Blog

Information and resources to keep African American Hair growing healthy.


Traction Alopecia, a hair loss condition caused by damage to the dermal papilla and hair follicle by constant pulling or tension over a long period, is most common in African-American women and men who braid or pull their hair too tightly. Tight braids, especially “cornrows”, or ponytails can lead to high tension, pulling and breakage of the hair. Traction alopecia is reversible if diagnosed early, but may lead to permanent hair loss if it is undetected for a prolonged period of time. In traction alopecia the worst hair loss is in areas where the hair is pulled the tightest, usually the forehead and temples, but varies depending on the hairstyle. It can be subtle at first, but becomes apparent over years as the hair line recedes from ear to ear starting farther and farther back on the head. The hair is lost because the tension from pulling damages the hair follicles beneath the skin. Over time, pulling the follicle damages it and eventually the damaged follicle can no longer make hair. Because you cannot develop new follicles, as more and more follicles are damaged, more and more permanent hair loss results. Many products suggest that conditioning the hair follicles and cleansing the scalp will revitalize damaged hair from traction alopecia. This is not always the case; hair loss sustained by constant abuse remains damaged for life. This form of alopecia might be able to be corrected, but prolonged abuse without proper care can be irreversible. The key to stopping traction alopecia is detecting it early! Hair styles that put unnecessary strain on the hair root must be changed for “looser, gentler hair styles. Those who suspect they may be vulnerable to traction alopecia should take action immediately to change their hair style or treatment methods to lessen or possibly eliminate long-term damage.


Lace front wigs have long been popular among the likes of Janet Jackson, Tyra Banks and Beyonce. Now they are becoming increasingly popular for normal folks because they look natural and are very easy to wear. Lace front wigs represent the latest technology for non-surgical hair replacement in the world today. A lace front wig, when designed and constructed properly, will be the closest thing to your own hair. Lace front wigs are sized and shaped perfectly according to the person’s head by expertly knotting hair onto an invisible lace base. Lace wigs can be ordered in French Lace or Swiss Lace. French lace is more durable and will hold up better over time. The Swiss lace is slightly thinner and more fragile. Most people order the French lace due to its durability. If applied properly, both caps will give you the undetectable hairline finish you’re looking for. Lace fronts can be applied with a variety of adhesives, from tape to silicone glue. It is the most natural, most beautiful, hair enhancement or replacement system imaginable today.  It is made out of real human hair and hand tied into a very sheer lace base one single hair at a time. It also protects your hair and scalp from the dangerous heat of the sun and daily styling implements. It should look so natural that it can be virtually undetectable to anyone, even at a distance of only a few inches away. There are no limitations to your look or lifestyle. You can shower, sleep, perm, wash or do anything you would normally do. You can wear it for weeks at a time without removing it. You can comb your hair straight back, part it in the middle or even go swimming with it. If you are the kind of a person who wants a stunning hairstyle without wasting your time on other useless, damaging and expensive alternatives, its time you got a lace front wig. You will be looking like a celebrity in no time. You can finally have the hair you always dreamed about!


As our hair reaches new lengths, it begins to take on a shape of its own. Finding the shape that best fits you and really showcases your gorgeous mane can be fun and exciting. Choosing the right shape depends on a myriad of factors, such as the length of your hair, the texture and thickness of your hair, and the shape of your head and face. We will look at the most popular shapes.

Blunt- is when the hair is cut evenly across on all sides. Many women enjoy the thickness that is gained by removing layers from their hair. A blunt cut gives a uniform appeal to hair and tends to make it look longer. Many also believe that it lessens the frequency of split ends and makes hair stronger and more resilient because all the hairs are aligned.

V-shaped hair tends to be shorter on the sides and longer in the middle, with the longest portion of hair growing down the middle of the back. The V-shape is considered sexy, and more mature for long-haired women. It allows for extra length, while keeping you from looking like you’re in high school.

U-shaped simply “rounds out” the back of the hair. This shape tends to be a little softer than the v-shape. It seems to be a nice mid-point between blunt and v-shape. It allows you to keep a good deal of length, but keeps ends more uniform than the v-shape.

If you’re feeling adventurous and know how to cut your own hair, Feye’s hair trimming instructions give in-depth steps to each of these three shapes; check her out at http://community.livejournal.com/feyeselftrim.

Layered implies having the hair cut into a number of layers, the shortest being the uppermost, with length increasing at the ends. This cut is probably the most versatile and basic haircut. Both long and short hair can look beautiful with layers. Many stylists believe that layers offer plenty of movement and body. Most, however, love it for its easy upkeep and versatility on any length.


Coarse hair can be tricky to manage and different shampoos and conditioners produce different results. Sometimes we can’t always afford those salon quality products, but we don’t want our hair to suffer. Several tips and tricks will make shopping easier. Experiment! Your hair may become accustomed to certain products as they are used over a long period of time. Additionally, new products are constantly being developed and re-formulated so you could be missing out on the best product for your hair simply by not trying new things!

Some drugstore brand conditioners that have produced excellent results on coarse hair include: Tresemme  Pro-Vitamin B5 & Aloe protects hair from breakage and heat styling, Infusium Moistureologie hydrates & replenishes moisture to dry, parched hair, Freeman Papaya & Mango Massive Moisture repairs breakage and split ends, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner contains olive, meadowfoam, and sweet almond oils to penetrate and moisturize each layer of the hair strand , Garnier Fructis Fortifying Conditioner contains active fruit concentrate to give strength and shine hair, Aussie Moist & Aussie 3-Minute Miracle, Loreal Vive Pro Nutrigloss Conditioners contain pearl protein, defines curls, and gives mirror shine, and Herbal Essences Hydralicious Conditoner smoothes frizzy hair with extracts of shea, and Hawaiian sea silk.

Finding a good drug-store brand conditioner can keep both your hair and your wallet in good shape! You can find these great conditioners at local supermarkets, retail, and discount stores. So don’t rob your hair of these inexpensive treasures, find your favorite drug-store treasure and keep some money in your pocket!


Exercise is important to good health and longevity. But for African-American women it inevitably means having a “bad” hair day!  If you are doing a lot of cardio you may have noticed that your hair feels a little drier than usual. Remember that the scalp is skin, and just like the skin on your face you must clean it on a regular basis, or you will develop a build-up in the pores. Well, your scalp has pores and follicles that must stay clear and clean in order to keep a healthy environment for healthy hair growth and to inhibit an itchy scalp, or scalp disorders. When you sweat, your hair becomes dehydrated and brittle causing aging damage, which can shorten the life of your strands.Quick-Fix: The Five-Minute Hairstyle

Styling the hair after a hard work out can be a real challenge for some. When starting a workout program, some women may cut their hair short, or weave or braid their hair with extensions. Those are options that you can choose, but don’t ever feel forced. There are ways to keep your hair looking fresh and chic, while preserving your sexy. This simple style will have you feeling good AND looking good in just minutes!
After your quick-fix shampoo and condition, you are ready for the next part.

Step 1. Wrap your head with a towel while you dry off.

Step 2. Remove the towel and lightly apply a leave-in conditioner.

Step 3. Apply a non-alcoholic, styling glaze to your hairline. If your hair is curly, apply a moisturizer before the glaze, then smooth your hair back flat if it’s short, or use a “scrunchie” to gather it into a ponytail for longer hair. Not too tight though!

Step 4. Lightly spray your hair and hairline with a moisturizer, and then tie a satin scarf around the hairline securely.

Step 5. Apply your favorite hair attachment (e.g., bun or drawstring ponytail).

Step 6. Secure the attachment with bobby pins, and then remove the scarf.

Voila! Beauty & Body! You don’t have to sacrifice a healthy body for a hairstyle! Be fit, Be fly!


Taking the steps to maintain proper moisture and protein balances within the hair shaft is important, particularly if you’ve color-treated your hair with anything other than a rinse. Color treated hair is often times more porous and dryer than untreated hair. Choose quality, moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, specifically for color-treated hair, to help prolong the vibrancy of your color. Harsh shampoos can cause abrasions along the cuticle which in addition to making your color appear dull, also cause breakage in the long run. Shampoo your hair less often to prevent premature fading of your color. Keep your water in the warm to cool range to avoid stripping your hair. Additionally, remember to protect your hair while swimming in chlorinated pools.

Color treated hair needs more moisture and upkeep than untreated hair. Follow each wash with a moisturizing conditioner for at least 20-30 minutes. Although, heat offers maximum penetration, forgo any heat styling for at least the first 2 weeks following a color process. Hot oil treatments or apple cider vinegar rinses are also options. They do well in keeping the cuticle smooth and soft. When using permanent or semi-permanent color, consider using a color rinse in between salon visits to keep hair fresh and vibrant looking. Color rinses help maintain the correct tone of color and help lessen the chemical damage to the hair shaft.

Here are a few simple items you’ll need to ensure you have the healthiest, color-treated hair:

1- Moisturizing Shampoo (preferably for color-treated hair)

1- Moisturizing Deep Conditioner

1- Protein/ Reconstructor Conditioner

1- Water-based protein moisturizer

1- Water-based moisture ONLY moisturizer

1- Oil

Keeping your color-treated hair in optimal condition may take a little more time and attention. But as long as you are giving your hair both the needed protein and moisturizing components it needs, your color treated hair will thrive!

Most of us visit a stylist weekly or monthly. Perhaps you’ve been plagued with the “unintentional” hair cut, wrong color job, or 2 hour wait. With all the time and money we invest in our hair, we certainly want to know if we’re getting our monies worth! Whether choosing a new stylist or deciding to leave an old one, be willing to honestly evaluate your stylist. More is involved than just liking the person.When visiting the shop, look at set-up and cleanliness of the area. Is it made comfortable for customers? Are you greeted when you enter? Do you feel comfortable and stress free? Does your stylist interact well with co-workers? Pay attention to your wait time too!  If you have an appointment, your wait time should be no more than 15 minutes. No one wants to spend all day in the salon! You might observe these things on arrival or make a checklist prior to your visit.Before your stylist begins to work, they should ask what you would like to have done. Also listen for questions regarding your daily hair maintenance regimen, products and techniques used. Don’t be afraid to tell your stylist what you do and do not like to have done to your hair e.g. scratching the scalp, rough washing, and small teeth combs. Is your stylist concerned about the health AND style of your hair. Don’t get caught in the whirlwind of mindless, trendy styles that may damage your precious strands. Opt for a stylist that knows the importance of healthy hair and scalp! Be aware of any services being done that you did not request. Talk to your stylist frequently to get feedback about what is being done and what you expect. After all, our hair is our crowning glory! With just a few unfortunate snips, or a too hot iron, it can be lying on the floor!Another way to evaluate your stylist is to look at the results and progress of other customers. Is the stylist attentive to other customers? How is their level of interaction? Usually, a stylist can be measured by the work they produce! So what’s your stylist showing you?


One of the most important things to remember about scalp care is that the scalp is skin, just like the skin on your face and must be taken care of and cleaned properly if you expect to maintain gorgeous tresses.  Healthy scalps are those where the skin is toned, pliable, and stimulated.

Remember these tips to help maintain a healthy scalp!

Keep it Clean! -Just as pores can become clogged on the face, the follicles of the hair can experience the same type of obstruction if products are placed directly on it. The scalp produces its own oil, called sebum. When products are frequently applied to the scalp, the scalp will produces less sebum to compensate. This action produces dryness and dandruff. The proper way to hydrate the scalp and shun dryness is through frequent washing and conditioning. For moisturizing and styling, apply your products from the new growth all the way to the ends. Avoid actively going through and coating the scalp with heavy oils.

Stay Gentle! - Avoid stripping shampoos with harsh detergents. Use clarifying shampoos sparingly only once or twice per month, and moisturizing shampoos for weekly. If you workout frequently and sweat heavily, always rinse the scalp with tepid water to remove salts, which can dry out the hair.

Say NO to Extreme Heat! – Blow dryers and hooded dryers contribute greatly to moisture depletion of the scalp. Try to direct blow-dryer heat down the hair shaft and not directly toward the scalp.

Eat Healthy! – A healthy diet is essential to a healthy scalp and nourishment of new hair growth. Nutritional imbalances may result in inadequate nourishment to our scalps which may hinder hair growth and scalp health. Vitamin and mineral deficits have a strong impact on the overall strength and integrity of the hair.

Keeping your scalp free of debris, keeping your products gentle, avoiding extreme heat, and balancing your diet will all help ensure that your scalp remains a healthy environment for your hair!


Curly and kinky hair requires extra care and attention. Because of its dry state, it can be brittle and quite fragile. Sebaceous glands below the scalp secrete an oily substance which travels down the shaft of straight hair making it shiny and locking the moisture in. With curly hair the sebaceous oil does not make it very far, this is why curly and kinky hair tends to be dry, frizzy and prone to breakage. Deep conditioning is easily one of the most important aspects of the curly and kinky hair care regimen.

Strictly speaking, deep conditioners are those types of conditioners which you are directed to leave on the hair for 15-30 minutes. For the deep conditioner to be truly effective, it is important that heat is used along with it. Heat allows the hair shaft to swell and the cuticles to open and allow the conditioner inside.

All hair types benefit from deep conditioning but for black hair, this is an essential component! As the hair is dry by nature, deep conditioning restores the moisture balance in the hair which stops breakage. The type of deep conditioner used should depend on the condition of the hair.

Moisturizing deep conditioners should be used alternately with protein deep conditioners to maintain a healthy balance. By using products that contain protein in them, you improve the hair’s elasticity and strength properties. The goal is to have hair that has both strength and elasticity.

With relaxed black hair some bonds have been broken during the chemical service so protein is required to strengthen the hair but moisture will also be needed because chemicals tend to aggravate the dry condition of the hair. For natural black hair it’s better to err on the side of moisture. As the hair bonds have not been broken by chemical service, the hair is usually pretty strong. However, it is likely to be quite dry. By promoting elasticity, deep conditioning improves the strength of the hair making it more resilient which helps in length retention in the long term.


Herbal Tea Rinses have been used for centuries in many cultures; as treatment and prophylactics for a myriad of health and hair ailments. Herbal Hair Teas are great for relieving scalp itching, flaking and dandruff, restore shine, increase growth, and reduce hair loss. Natural hair rinses also repair damaged hair by strengthening it and giving it a more fresh appearance. They nourish the hair follicles and promote healthy hair growth. Although there are many hair-friendly herbs; we will look at the most common ones and how they can be used to enhance and beautify your hair.

  • Chamomile: A natural hair conditioner, traditionally used for lighter color hair.
  • Horsetail: Due to its high silica content, it helps brittle hair
  • Mint: Stimulates the scalp
  • Nettle: Treats dandruff and stimulates hair growth
  • Rosemary: Excellent for all hair types and problems, especially hair growth.
  • Sage: Traditionally used to restore color to graying hair. As a hair rinse, it removes dandruff and darkens hair.
  • Thyme: Good for oily hair and dandruff.
  • Cinnamon: Good for Alopecia and scalp stimulation.
  • Brahmi: Ayurvedic herb makes hair dark, thick, and shiny. Also strengthens hair roots and promotes hair growth.

Use this easy, all-purpose recipe to make your next hair tea!

All-Purpose Hair Tea

INGREDIENTS:
1/2 cup dried herbs
4 cups distilled water

DIRECTIONS:
Boil the two ingredients for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let the tea brew three to five minutes, or longer for stronger tea. Strain using a cheese cloth or knee-high pantyhose and let cool. Apply the solution to freshly washed hair. Rinse with cool or tepid water to help seal the hair cuticle.

Remember! Herbal rinses are not quick fixes. Their effectiveness is cumulative and should be done consistently for at least 2 months to see good results.

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